Game on and Over

Jan and I was talking about bouldering last weekend and how we used to say it is much simpler than rope climbing in that you don't need a rope and a whole lot of gear, just shoes and a chalkbag. Something must have gone wrong because today I was carrying about 30 kg of gear including 3 pads and bag up the hill to get to the Kasviken boulders.

Felt unmotivated to warm up so it got a bit sloppy, just wanted to get going, the plan was to figure out the missing link on "Game Over" so it would be game on, so to say, to start the real attempts on the problem. I had based my solution on a video of Peter Bosma climbing the problem I had found on his site, he obviously has some overcapacity for the problem so I had to finetune it a bit to work for me. Taking any swing during the climb was not an option, I didn't have the strength to control it. The last moves was also too dependent on fingerstrength so I had to add in a few more moves. I thougt I had the "finbeta" for this problem now and started working. First go I totally forgot the sequence leading into the end but second go was a success.

I worked the problem for 4 session prior to today and I rate it as my best climb so far both in difficulty and in beauty of the moves. On first session I was totally lost and certain that it must be harder than my other personal best, now I realize that it's in the same ballpark and I would have had a little more to give. Without the Bosma video it would probably have taken me much longer to figure a problem as hard as this out.

Looking forward to something new!

Again the sun was f**king up my video.