Got a Life

Jim on "Voodoo", next to "Geta Life".

Today I took an intermission from my efforts on "Game Over", on which I by the way now only lack one move before I can start trying the whole thing, to have a more social climbing session in Djupviken with my family, Jim and Jan with his sons.

One thing led to another, not exactly, I had an hidden agenda, and it was time to try my longtime project "Geta Life" which I started to work on in 2003, but to be honest I only did a couple of sessions on then, and then not so much, and now this was the first session after the 7 year rest.

My plan was to use the method that Tomi Nytorp does in the "Å movie", that is going with the left hand first. It felt wrong for a few reasons, one reason was that I was looking straight into the sun when doing the move, another that I had been working a method going with the right hand first. If I would compare the methods without having done the left hand first version I would say my method has a shorter dyno, only have to move the right hand about 40 cm but with my method it is all points off and I also think the swing is more violent but overall it felt more natural for me.

Speaking of natural, "Geta Life" was about 80 percent or more about breaking the mental block I had to do the dyno, to talk my brain into the idea of letting go of two if not perfectly good, at least two reasonably good holds while hanging with the back to the ground and go into an uncertain future. After atleast 20 attempts to do the dyno with better and better result I finally had the guts to go for it fully and to take the swing. Then it took 3 or 4 more tries from the beginning to get the problem bagged. Did it on what I promised the others would be the final go and with only a couple of layers left before splitting one of my fingertips.

It was not the most stylish ascent the problem has seen but an ascent never the less, and also the first local one. I also apologize for the movie quality, the sun was working against me in more than one way.