Friday, May 28, 2010

Sprited Away

Friday night was spent in Kalvsbergen in Geta. An area I've only visited climbing once before so it felt a bit exotic. This springs only climbingtrip you could say. I wanted to climb Henkien Kätkemä and possibly Rytmihäiriö, two very highclass boulders.

I have known of the problems since they were put up in 2005 but I just hadn't got the thumb out of my rear mono.

Henkien Kätkemä is a beautiful slab that was a nice contrast to all the steep climbing I have been doing all spring. I loved the moves on the first two thirds of the problem but the problem was slightly ruined in my opinion by me being able to reach the final holds from the last footholds. Jim being 5 cm shorter didn't have the same luxury and despite doing a very solid job on the lower parts was not able to reach the final holds to get home safely. Obviously it is possible also for shorter climbers but they will have to work abit harder. This is possibly the reason of the slightly different grade opinions I have heard. Well, well worth the visit.

Off to Rytmihäiriö. The other classic of the area, a massive arete with really nice climbing. I was able to get up to the part where it starts to get exiting. It's high and I didn't want to risk my back and legs for it today and only had a couple of pads so I let it be and played my responsible dad card once more. ;-) It remains on my todo list however but I'd like some more pads and beta for the top before commiting because it IS high.

On the picture, Jim's doing some solid climbing on Henkien Kätkemä, but no cigarr today.

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