Tuesday, April 19, 2011

The Mojo Project

Today was the second day this year on my old "Mojo" project from around 2003-2004. In fact, so old is this project that it needs a good cleaning again but the lower parts are clean enough until I get the time to clean the top again. From what I remember from back then the top looked allright when I cleaned it but I could never do the starting moves to get up to try them.

The problem starts as a slab or slightly less than vertical and finsishes with a small overhang. I still think, and hope, that the crux will be somewhere in the beginning and I can now semi consistently do the first few moves but get stuck in a position where most of my weight is on the foot that needs to be moved next so that has to be figured out next. It starts with a ok knob like hold for the left hand and a good foothold for the right foot. Step up and take a bad gaston with the right, mostly for balance, put the left foot on a bad foothold to get the right foot up on a better foothold but that is hard to get much weight over. For the right hand now there are a few options that has been tried but not succesfully. The object is to move the left foot up a bit to a good foothold to get some rest befored doing the top.

I don't know how hard the problem will be, I guess it will be the hardest problem I have put up but probably not the hardest one I climbed. It definetly will take some effort and much of it will be problem solving which I mostly do alone. Maybe it won't be so hard after all when the moves are figured out.

I hope I can get a few good sessions on it this spring and get it cleaned up and who knows. I really love the problem and could probably spend more time there than the rest of my family would like me to.

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